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Bromiliads Growing on Mangrove Trees - Florida Everglades |
Whether your culinary preferences lean towards haute cuisine
or burgers and beer; whether you have a full pocketbook or a near empty one, in
almost everyone’s life there are those occasions when you step into a
restaurant not knowing what to expect and leave having had a surprising, unforgettable
meal. I am not, by any means, highly world traveled, nor do I have a pocketbook
that has allowed me to dine in Michelin starred restaurants. I have, however,
had several unforgettable dining experiences. Two such occasions took place in
the southern United States; one just south of Marco Island, Florida and the
other in Savannah, Georgia. These experiences couldn’t have been more different
from one another. One didn’t even take place in a restaurant, but in the Everglades.
On one of our annual January sojourns to Marco
Island, Andrew and I, being sea kayak
enthusiasts, decided to look for a guide who could take us kayaking into the Everglades.
And find one we did; a big, burly man by the name of Jack, who kept alligators
as pets at his office just north of the Everglades on Florida’s west coast. The
morning of our paddling adventure was made miserable by cool temperatures and
drizzling rain. At the back of Jack’s van, the three of us loaded up a trailer
with the kayaks, paddles and gear and set off. In due course, Jack pulled his
van to the side of the road at an obscure spot. We unloaded the kayaks, setting
them into a barely visible creek overhung with mangrove branches. It was there
that we received our first instructions from our guide;
“Whatever you do, resist the urge to pull your kayak through
this shallow area by using the mangrove branches right above your heads. There
are a variety of poisonous spiders in these trees.”
It was tempting to reach up and use the mangrove branches to
pull my kayak forward through the shallow, marshy, creek, but his words kept me
pushing forward using only my paddle. At last we emerged into a small lake. The
rain had subsided and the water was calm. We paddled quietly for several
minutes before I realized that the floating log that I had been paddling
towards was in fact, not a log. The alligator remained still in the water, but
his watchful eyes were on me. I turned to our guide and spoke as quietly as I
could and still be heard.
“I don’t like alligators.”
Spotting the alligator, our guide responded
enthusiastically.
“I don’t either. That’s why I always carry a two way radio
in case of an emergency and this.” He held up a very large hunting knife. “And
a first aid kit.”
Maybe this adventure was a little more dangerous than I had
anticipated. Somehow I didn’t find his words comforting. I paddled slowly and
calmly away from the alligator, not wanting to get its dander up or what seemed
to be, its interest in me.
We continued our journey and were led from one area of water
to another by adjoining streams of varying widths and depths. Here and there
were floating white Styrofoam buoys that Jack would stop at. At each one he
would reach down and pull up a small crab trap attached to the buoy with line. I
hadn’t noticed earlier that Jack had a large Dutch oven set in front of him in
the kayak. Once he had pulled up a trap, he would remove the heavy lid from the
pot. One by one, he removed each crab from the trap, and checked to see if it
was male or female. All the females were released back into the water. The male
crabs were thrown into it the pot, which was quickly covered with the heavy lid.
Jack would reset each trap and ease it back into the water. At one spot a large
chunk had been bitten out of the buoy. Jack held it up for us to see.
“Alligators don’t differentiate between inanimate things and
live creatures. They just attack everything. This buoy was whole yesterday.”
As we went deeper and deeper into the Everglades,
the waterways became narrower and shallower until finally, Jack instructed us
to leave our kayaks at the edge of the creek and walk through the knee deep
water to a spot that he wanted to take us to. He paddled for a few minutes
longer then got out of his kayak and pulled it through the water.
“Okay, let’s stop here.”
The rain had begun again. We were standing in about a foot
and a half of water, in the middle of a creek in the pouring rain, and waited. We
had no idea what to expect next.
“I like you two,” announced our gruff guide. “I don’t like
everyone that I take on this kayak tour, but you two showed up in bad weather,
you’ve followed all of my instructions and you’ve been great company. So I’m
going to make you lunch. I don’t tell customers about having lunch here in
advance because I don’t do this for everyone. If I don’t like who I’m with I
just take my pot of crabs home with me for my dinner!” he laughed heartily.
With that, he reached into his kayak and took out a
rectangular board about a foot and half wide that had a rope attached to each corner.
He tied each piece of rope to a mangrove branch, creating a stable platform. It
looked like a small swing suspended from the branch. Next he set a two burner
camp stove in the middle of the board and lit the burners. He lifted the pot
full of crabs from his kayak and dipped it into the water, filling it part way,
then set it on the burners. We stood there in amazement and delight. We were
going to have fresh steamed crabs, in the rain, in the middle of a creek deep
in the Everglades. Until that point I hadn’t realized how
hungry I was! There were more surprises in store.
Next, Jack pulled out a collapsible table, unfolded the legs,
and set up the table in the water. He
then pulled out a package and unwrapped a round loaf of olive focaccia, setting
it on top of the table.
“I baked it last night,” he said, with a little pride
showing through in his husky voice.
Even to this day, that olive focaccia was the best I’ve ever
tasted; the olives and rosemary gave it a lovely, savoury flavour and the
texture was perfect.
When the crabs were ready, Jack showed us how to crack open
each section of a crab so we could extract the delicate meat inside. The crab
meat was sweet, tender and utterly delectable.
“Just toss the shells to the side of the creek” he
instructed. They’ll all be gone by tomorrow.”
Really? What was in there, anyway? I peered hard into the
tangle of mangrove branches, but could only see darkness. Jack saw me starring
into the underbrush and only vaguely confirmed my suspicions:
“Believe me; you don’t want to know what’s in there.”
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Our view into the Mangrove trees |
Jack had one final surprise in store. From his kayak he
pulled out a container and lifted the lid, revealing a dark chocolate layer cake.
“I made this, too!” he proudly informed us.
“Can you believe this?” I exclaimed. “We’re having chocolate
cake in the Everglades. This is absolutely amazing.
Thanks to our great chef and tour guide.”
He was so pleased and so happy to have given us this
unforgettable experience.
We packed up and headed back, retrieved our kayaks and
paddled back to where our journey had begun. We loaded up the pick up truck and
headed back toward his office. The rain had increased and water was accumulating
on the flat road. Our guide was driving too fast and suddenly his van started
hydroplaning, sliding back and forth over the water on the road. I hung onto
the door and held my breath until he finally regained control. We arrived
safely back where our journey had begun, helped him unload the kayaks and gear,
expressed our thanks and said our goodbyes.
In subsequent visits to Marco
Island, we’ve returned to the
location where our kayak tour guide had his office, but sadly, it was no longer
there and we’ve been unable to find out any information regarding his
whereabouts. Jack was gone and we would never again be able to repeat our
incredible experience, but I will always cherish the memory of that
unforgettable day and that most unusual, amazing lunch.
Southern Hospitality to be cont’d.